The words "remodel" and "renovate" are frequently used interchangeably when it comes to interior design. But in our practice, these terms are really two different things. The difference between them is that a renovation refers primarily to restoring something to a previous condition, form and state. Remodel refers to taking what you have and making changes to increase the functionality of the interior... based of course on the desires of the current owners and resident.

Many of our projects have elements of both.  Much depends on the existing condition of the interior, to what degree the projects require upgrading and the value such work increases the property value. 

A new project we've started was created by a well-known architect, William Cody,  during the 1980s.  But thru the years, changes were made - good and bad - and that with new owners, is now in need of several updates.  So we're contemplating how best to outline the scope of work by faithfully keeping the clean simple lines that reflect the mid-century designs from 40 years ago.

Here is a sneak preview of the preliminary designs. ...

1.  We Are Practical In Our Design And Organized In Our Projects

The design of an interior is first and foremost about function.  If a space doesn’t do what is intended, then no matter how good it may look, it will at some point be a failure.  So we work hard to make sure that the design we offer has practicality built into its DNA.  And for a project to be successful, ordered, checked on, delivered and installed, it has to be organized and managed well. 

We spend a lot of time documenting, communicating, explaining, cajoling and it shows at the time of installation.  Nothing ever works like clockwork in this profession. It is how you handle the unexpected that can determine the success of the project and one has to be organized to manage those challenging times. ​

Effective design does not happen because someone has a good flair for placing pillows.  Effective design happens because it is built on a certain expertise, ongoing education and years of experience.  Those three “e’s” give the design professional the ability to handle difficult issues when if they arise or if something goes sideways.  And difficulties do arise and things do go sideways. 

But being engaged with the client and the project means handling the challenges quickly and finding solutions to those challenges.  It is also important to know when just the right design is working and when to edit and delete.  We see many interiors where the space is so busy, the eye doesn't have a chance at absorbing what the design statement is about.   That takes skill and patience. (And by the way, we are quite adept in placing pillows with the appropriate karate chop in the middle. )  

Recently, I had the opportunity to meet with a new client and her husband, both now in their late 60s, and during the initial interview discovered that they had never engaged the services of an interior designer, despite having built a new home, and remodeled two others during their some 39 years of marriage. It seems it was never something that occurred to them.  

But in their newest project, they felt the need to reach out to a professional who might be able to present fresh ideas and help coordinate the numerous decisions that are a part of any significant remodeling project such as theirs,... a three bedroom, three bath condominium in a gated community in Indian Wells, CA.  

One of the "new" ideas we discussed - new at least for them - was to incorporate the seven principles of universal design into the interior to help reduce and/or eliminate architectural barriers... you know,... those pesky things in a residence that hamper mobility and independence.  

I could tell by their reaction that this was something fairly radical to them.  "Just imagine... a home with greater accessibility, no matter age or ability.  Just imagine... a home that supports independent living.  Just imagine... a home that sustains the quality of life."    

As I moved thru the interview, they began to respond well to the concepts such as wider doors and halls, levers on the doors rather than knobs, increased lighting levels and a no-step entry into the home.  But as they contemplated such ideas, including a no-curb shower, they expressed real concerns that their home would begin to look like,.. and in their words..."like it was built for someone who was crippled." 

I wasn't surprised at their response.  I have heard similar concerns over the last 25 years.  But I was quick to respond... "Why not have a home that can "grow" with you, adapt to your needs and give you an increased measure of safety and all the while,...just looking smart and sexy?"  They were yet not convinced so I needed to show them a few ideas.

We had just recently completed an "accessible" master bathroom project in Palm Desert, CA and the results were amazing.  Sharing the photos with them, they began to see my vision... a space for now and forever.  An interior that is accessible, functional and nearly maintenance free.  A home that will make living just more comfortable.  A design that is amazing to live with.  And the plus side... increased value should they decide to sell it at some point. 

This bathroom features many universal design features including lower counter tops, non-slip flooring, handles on faucets, doors and drawers, increased levels of lighting, a European entry into the shower, and a bench inside the shower.  The shower floor has low-voltage wiring that gently heats the floor and the "sliced" mosaic stones creates a texture to reduce the possibility of slipping on the wet floor. The tub has a small deck that creates a "seat" so one sits and turns into the tub. 

Well.. after seeing the photographs of that bathroom, it still took a little persistence and prodding to get the clients to accept my design concepts but they are now engaged and fully onboard with the ideas.  Currently, we are interviewing contractors to build our team, explaining our vision of accessibility and applying universal design principles to the interior, educating each team worker how important such elements are in helping these clients stay in place.  

​• But it isn't easy.

After explaining the scope of the work and the "accessibility" features we had put in the clients' design to the very first contractor we interviewed, he responded, "I just don't see the value but I guess,...to each his own."

Ok. Well,...Thank You Very Much.  
​• Next Contractor.  

UPDATE:  This has been one of our most popular posts and we've updated it with new information.  Check it out.  

Whether a single space or a complete home, remodeling any place isn't ever all that easy. There are many and numerous  decisions that need to be made.  

And we should know.  With more than 30 years of experience, we have assisted clients in making the right decisions and getting everything on a firm foundation to begin with.  

First of all,there are all those pesky decisions that need to be made and questions to be answered.
- What style and color?
- How much should this cost?
- Will it be worth the investment over time?
- How much of a disruption will there be in your life? 

But just as important a design decision is assembling your design team and that means hiring the contractor for the project.  Many clients we work with have great apprehensions about that part of the project and with good reason.  It isn't always easy to find the right mix of personality, workmanship, business ethics and reliability no matter the field or profession including the profession of general contracting.  Sometimes it is a gut reaction about how they presented themselves or the work they have done in the past.  After all, good client referrals should be an important deciding factor. 

But there are other ways to help make such important decisions and to make sure the relationship you build doesn't fall apart in the middle of the work.  

Here are some tips we wanted to share.

#1   Make all the design decisions that you can up front.  Decide all the things you hope for before you bring in the contractor,... even the little details.  Make a wish list of the things you'd "like to have" but are not able to commit to because you don't have all the information you need.  And if you don't have a clue at all about what might be possible, that is where we come in as your designers. 

#2 Request that contracting bids be submitted in writing with all the details and terms clearly explained. And of course, that would lead to having a written contract with a timeline, payment schedule and how changes to the work will be handled.

#3 Request the names of past clients who would be willing to let you see the work they have completed in the recent past.  That way you will be able to see the "fit and finish" of the work they have done.

#4 Before you sign on that dotted line, verify the license and make sure it is in good standing by visiting your state's governing license board.  In California, it is called: Contractors State License Board(CSLB) and you get get more information by going online to: www.cslb.ca.gov - or - calling (1) 800-321-2752. 

#5  Ask whether your contractor carries general liability insurance and worker's compensation for any directly hired employees.  Call your homeowner's insurance agent to ensure you are covered should some unforeseen circumstance occur such as water damage due to a broken pipe. 

#6  You might try to research your contractor's name online for additional reviews but you should also consider the source.  We have found that some referral sites are not as "accurate" as others so check more than one. 

#7  Any contractor performing $500 worth or work or more ( including materials and labor ) must be licensed by the CSLB to work in California.  Also, contractors cannot ask for a deposit of more than 10% of the total cost of the job or $1,000 at the inception of the project.

#8  Find out directly from your local building department whether your project needs a building permit and confirm that your contractor will obtain all necessary permits.

By following these tips and tricks, the decisions that you need to make will lay the foundation for a better remodeling project.  If you have questions or other concerns, you can post your comments below.  Or just give us a call and we'll do our best to start you out in the right direction.  (760) 322-3784  

When we begin the design of a kitchen, we strive for beauty and style.  But even more importantly, we want the space to function properly.  If cabinet doors bang against one another or a drawer won't operate as intended or if there is insufficient counter space, the kitchen - no matter how attractive - isn't going to work as intended.  

So we quite often refer to 31 guidelines established by a professional design organization, the National Kitchen + Bath Association, as a way to ensure we are addressing functionality in our design and layout of the kitchen.   Here is a condensed version of the 31 "rules" to help guide the design process.
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1. Door/Entry: A doorway should be at least 32 inches wide.
2. Door Interference: No entry door should interfere with appliances, nor should appliance doors interfere with one another.
3. Distance Between Work Centers: In a kitchen with three work centers*, the sum of the distances between them should total no more than 26 feet. No leg of the work triangle should measure less than 4 feet nor more than 9 feet. When the kitchen includes additional work centers, each additional distance should measure no less than 4 feet nor more than 9 feet. No work triangle leg should intersect an island or peninsula by more than 12 inches.
* The distances between the three primary work centers (cooking, cleanup/prep and refrigeration) form a work triangle.
4. Separating Work Centers: A full-height, full-depth, tall obstacle [i.e., a pantry cabinet or refrigerator] should not separate two primary work centers.
5. Work Triangle Traffic: No major traffic patterns should cross through the work triangle.
6. Work Aisle: The width of a work aisle should be at least 42 inches for one cook and at least 48 inches for multiple cooks.
7. Walkway: The width of a walkway should be at least 36 inches.
8. Traffic Clearance at Seating: In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32 inches of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36 inches to edge past or at least 44 inches to walk past.
9. Seating Clearance: Kitchen seating areas should incorporate at least the following clearances: At 30-inch-high tables/counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 18-inch-deep knee space for each seated diner. At 36-inch-high counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 15-inch-deep knee space. At 42-inch-high counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 12-inch-deep knee space.
10. Cleanup/Prep Sink Placement: If a kitchen has only one sink, locate it adjacent to or across from the cooking surface and refrigerator.
11. Cleanup/Prep Sink Landing Area: Include at least a 24-inch-wide landing area to one side of the sink and at least an18-inch-wide landing area on the other side.
12. Preparation/Work Area: Include a section of continuous countertop at least 36 inches wide and 24 inches deep immediately next to a sink.
13. Dishwasher Placement: Locate nearest edge of the primary dishwasher within 36 inches of the nearest edge of a sink. Provide at least 21 inches of standing space between the edge of the dishwasher and countertop frontage, appliances and/or cabinets placed at a right angle to the dishwasher.
14. Waste Receptacles: Include at least two waste receptacles. Locate one near the sink(s) and a second for recycling in the kitchen or nearby.
15. Auxiliary Sink: At least 3 inches of countertop frontage should be provided on one side of the auxiliary sink and 18 inches on the other side.
16. Refrigerator Landing Area: Include at least 15 inches of landing area on the handle side of the refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area on either side of a side-by-side refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area no more than 48 inches across from the front of the refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area above or adjacent to any undercounter refrigeration appliance.
17. Cooking Surface Landing Area: Include a minimum of 12 inches of landing area on one side of a cooking surface and 15 inches on the other side. In an island or peninsula, the countertop should also extended a minimum of 9 inches behind the cooking surface.
18. Cooking Surface Clearance: Allow 24 inches of clearance between the cooking surface and a protected noncombustible surface [e.g., a range hood] above it. At least 30 inches of clearance is required between the cooking surface and an unprotected/combustible surface [e.g., cabinetry] above it. If a microwave hood is used, then the manufacturer's specifications should be followed.
19. Cooking Surface Ventilation: Provide a correctly sized, ducted ventilation system for all cooking surface appliances; the recommended minimum is 150 CFM.
20. Cooking Surface Safety: Do not locate the cooking surface under an operable window. Window treatments above the cooking surface should not use flammable materials. A fire extinguisher should be located near the exit of the kitchen away from cooking equipment.
21. Microwave Oven Placement: The ideal location for the bottom of the microwave is 3 inches below the principle user's shoulder but no more than 54 inches above the floor. If the microwave is below the countertop the bottom must be at least 15 inches off the finished floor.
22. Microwave Landing Area: Provide at least a 15-inch landing area above, below or adjacent to the handle side of a microwave.
23. Oven Landing Area: Include at least a 15-inch landing area next to or above the oven. At least a 15-inch landing area not more than 48 inches across from the oven is acceptable if the appliance does not open into a walkway.
24. Combining Landing Areas: If two landing areas are adjacent, determine a new minimum by taking the longer of the two landing area requirements and adding 12 inches.
25. Countertop Space: A total of 158 inches of countertop frontage, 24 inches deep, with at least 15 inches of clearance above, is needed to accommodate all uses.
26. Countertop Edges: Specify clipped or round corners rather than sharp edges.
27. Storage: The total shelf/drawer frontage is: 1,400 inches for a small kitchen (150 square feet or less); 1,700 inches for a medium kitchen (151 to 350 square feet); and 2,000 inches for a large kitchen (351 square feet or more).
28. Storage at Cleanup/Prep Sink: Of the total recommended shelf/drawer frontage, the following should be located within 72 inches of the centerline of the main cleanup/prep sink: at least 400 inches for a small kitchen; at least 480 inches for a medium kitchen; and at least 560 inches for a large kitchen.
29. Corner Cabinet Storage: At least one corner cabinet should include a functional storage device. This does not apply if there are no corner cabinets.
30. Electrical Receptacles: GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protection is required on all receptacles servicing countertop surfaces.
31. Lighting: Every work surface should be well-illuminated by appropriate task lighting.

We know a great deal about moving.  After all... as a part of the design process,...we help people make the move from one location to another or just move out so a place can be remodeled.

We know the whole moving thing is never ever easy.  And we know it isn't without stress.  But it will go just a wee bit easier if you schedule, plot, plan and scheme well in  advance of the moving day.   

We also know it is an ideal opportunity to purge all those things that clutter one's personal and work spaces in the hopes of bringing new things, ideas, people and places into those lives.

Currently we have three large projects,... a country club and two "re-do's" of upscale residences that will undergo big changes this summer and into the fall and we have started preparing for those moves.   

And if that isn't enough...this summer we will be moving our office and showroom just down a few storefronts to the east from our current location in the El Paseo shopping district in Palm Desert, CA.  We will be closed from June 21 to July 5 but you know where you can find us... • by phone ( 760) 322-3784  • by email,... or if you are so inclined, drop by and help us pack.  🤓

Our new digs will be located at 73-350 El Paseo, Suite #103 In Palm Desert,... near the corner of El Paseo and Lupine.

By: Michael A. Thomas, FASID, CAPS
The Design Collective Group Inc. 

The kitchen is an important component of any home and getting it arranged properly to make the most of the space is critical. A kitchen can be filled with beautiful materials and high styled appliances but if the layout and space doesn't function as intended, it won’t be successful. 

​And because creating a new kitchen takes a lot of time, energy and dollars to get it just right, it makes good sense (and cents) to plan the kitchen on paper by first considering how you plan to use it before you think about how it will look.
We came up with five questions that can form the framework around which your design plans will develop.  Grab a pencil and jot down the answers to the following:   

(1) What types of cooking do you plan to do in your new space?
While cooking is a daily necessity for most, others look at it as a place to develop their culinary skills while, others see the kitchen as a space for entertaining. And if you do entertain, consider how you use the area… a casual affair or for a more a formal gathering?
 
(2)  Who else may be using the space with you?
Consider the three critical tasks of prep, cook and clean-up and then think about the traffic patterns that you need in order to keep from crossing paths with others. Too many cooks can indeed spoil the broth when there are many in the same space.  And if you entertain frequently or hire a caterer for special events, you might need an abundance of counter space.  

(3)  How long will you be in this residence?
A great kitchen that is both functional and attractive can provide you with a great return on your investment (more than any other room in the house), but kitchens can also be an arm and a leg.  So in your budgeting, be cautious that you don’t over-design since you may not recoup the dollars spent.  Consider the resale values of your neighbors and review what others may be doing to update their space.  You might also speak with a real estate agent to provide some guidance.

(4) Which appliances are needed and which might be a luxury?
​Cook tops, refrigerators, microwaves and ovens will make up the single largest expense in any kitchen.  But while other kitchen equipment like a warming oven or a second dishwasher may seem like a luxury to some, it may be essential to you based on your specific needs, so identify what you might like to have and set aside a few dollars for any special piece of equipment at the beginning of your project. 

​
​(5)  Do you, a member of your family or anyone who may visit have special needs due to a mobility issue?
Plan your kitchen to have added functionality. For instance, use handles instead of knobs, design cabinetry with full extension drawers and additional lighting can help everyone but may be really important to those who might be elder or have a physical impairment. 

With answers to these questions in hand, your next step is to bring in the professionals.  An interior designer or a kitchen planner who has a thorough understanding and wealth of experience in creating great kitchen spaces will be an important key to your success and to that of your kitchen. 

And where do you start?  Start by giving us a call.  (760) 322-3784 

Each year 75,000 people and 2,000 exhibitors meet in a little village called High Point, NC for the semi-annual furniture market, a trade and wholesale event for interior designers, along with furniture and retail stores. 

This year, there were so many warm and cool neutral colors in upholstery, lighting and accessories that one could draw a conclusion that neutrals are “back in style”. 

But for me, neutrals never left to begin with. They have always been “in vogue” in my book.

The reason is that neutral colors are both classic and timeless. They can visually expand spaces, minimize problem architectural features and serve as background to an art or book collection. They are ideal for those individuals who are unsure about a color choice especially those color choices that typically tend to be more fashionable or time specific. Neutral palettes can be subtle and stylish, creating spaces that are quiet, restful and soothing. But they also can be big, bold, warm and energizing.

Yet for all the reasons noted, some believe that neutrals are only whiney white, boring beige and stodgy gray. It does not have to be that way.  With tones as varied as luscious latte, cinnamon biscuit and driftwood gray, neutrals are anything but boring.

Tweaking colors is also an easy way to put pizazz in a neutral palette. Walls with just a slight bit of olive, a washed out plum or a wee touch of cocoa can make a very strong and dramatic background especially when combined with bright white for the  trim, moldings and doors.